Introducing: the Sunday Morning Rib Stitch Sweater — Free Knitting Pattern

27.10.2021
58
Introducing:  the Sunday Morning Rib Stitch Sweater — Free Knitting Pattern

Introducing: the Sunday Morning Rib Stitch Sweater — Free Knitting Pattern

The Sunday Morning ribbed sweater is a top down, raglan style knitting pattern worked in 3 by 3 rib stitch. This knitting pattern is one of my absolute favorites — I love the simplicity of both the style and pattern.

Sunday Morning rib sweater on model sitting down

Scroll down to access the free knitting pattern or keep reading to learn a bit more about the design!

The Design

I’ve been planning on designing a rib stitch sweater knitting pattern for quite a while! I always love the look of rib sweaters. They are so timeless and cozy looking! Knitters know that rib stitch is actually super easy — so that’s a win win!

If you’ve never made a top down raglan sweater before, then get ready to be amazed. This sweater construction technique is so fun and enjoyable to knit. Basically, it is worked from the top down, in the round, with increases worked on either side of the ‘raglans’ to shape the body and the sleeves.

It is worked completely in one piece and in the round! This sweater construction is actually perfect for beginners who are ready for the jump into sweater knitting!

rib knit sweater full image

Some of the benefits of top down raglan style sweater are:

You can try the sweater on as you go!

Because this style of sweater is worked starting at the neckline and working down, you can try it on and get a pretty good idea how its going to fit! This takes some of the guesswork out of knitting and makes it easier to modify the pattern if you desire.

You can see how to try on the sweater below. You may need to use an extra long needle to do this or a piece of scrap yarn to hold your stitches. Its a nice way to see how the sweater is developing!

The hard work and counting is done at the beginning!

If you are like me, you are most excited and focused at the beginning of your pattern. I think its so great to get the counting, increasing, and more complex stitch work out of the way at the beginning.

Raglan style sweaters are generally knit in the round!

Top down sweaters aren’t always worked in the round, but most of the time they are. This makes knitting them a bit faster because you don’t have to stop and turn your work around as often.

This sweater specifically is worked flat because it is bulky and needs a bit of structure to hold its shape. Also, since it is worked in 3×3 rib, there is hardly any difference between knitting flat and in the round.

Some of my most popular knitting patterns are top, down raglan sweaters. The Vanilla Bean Turtleneck and the Rainbow Stripe Sweater are two of my favorites.

Why I love this pattern

There are a few design elements that I am SUPER picky about in knitting patterns. The first is definitely the neckline. If the sweater doesn’t have a nicely shaped, rounded neckline that is slightly lower in the front, I will never wear it! I’ve made many sweaters before with a poorly shaped neckline and they always feel itchy or dig into your neck.

rib stitch sweater neck detail image

Another thing I am super picky about is the underarm. I strongly believe that there needs to be stitches cast on at the underarm to add shaping and remove bulk. Our bodies are 3 dimensional so our knitting patterns should be too.

So often I see sweaters with the same amount of stitches cast on at the underarm for size XS as size 5X. This is absolutely crazy to me! As sizes go up, underarm shaping should generally go up as well.

Sunday Morning Sweater shaped neckline details

Yarn:

The yarn that I used for this sweater is Lion Brand Yarn Hue + Me in the color Desert. I am super obsessed with this yarn, it is a category 5 bulky weight yarn and contains just 20% wool for softness and strength. It also comes in some amazing colors!

I also used this yarn in my Rosebud Scarf Crochet Pattern and I am certain I’ll be using it more in the future!

Yarn Substitutions:

Some other bulky weight yarns that I recommend are:

  • Lion Brand Woolspun (linked HERE) — this yarn is super similar to Hue + Me but spun a bit tighter so your stitch definition will look slightly different. This yarn was actually discontinued years ago but Lion Brand brought it back for a limited time!
  • KnitPicks Swish Bulky (linked HERE) — this yarn is 100% merino wool so it is the most luxurious and warm on the list! I love the Swish line of yarn because its merino (my favorite) but also pretty affordable!

You can easily substitute another yarn that you prefer — just be sure to check your gauge! Since this is a garment, small changes in gauge can greatly alter the fit.

Sunday Morning Rib Stitch Sweater Knitting Pattern

© ORIGINALLY LOVELY 2021

This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.

The free version of this pattern must be accessed from the webpage.

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Sunday Morning Sweater on Ravelry, CLICK HERE

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Sunday Morning Sweater on Etsy, CLICK HERE

rib knit sweater detail image of sleeve

Skill Level

Intermediate 

For this pattern, you will need to know how to knit, purl, work in the round, be familiar with different increases and decreases, and work the tubular bind off.  

Although this is listed as an intermediate level knitting pattern, I do think that advanced beginners who are ready to dive into sweater construction will enjoy this pattern as well.

Materials

5, (5, 6, 7, 7), (8, 8, 9, 10) skeins, [approx 585, (645, 735, 825, 895), (990, 1085, 1160, 1275) yards] Lion Brand Hue + Me Yarn (shown in the color Desert) or other Bulky weight yarn 

Size US 11 (8.0 mm) 32” or longer circular knitting needles 

Size US 10 (6.0 mm) 24” circular knitting needles

Stitch Markers

Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Notes

This raglan style sweater is worked from the top, down and the ribbing is created using a 3×3 rib stitch.  Once you have increased to shape the yoke, you will separate to work the body and sleeves.  Body and sleeves will be worked flat and seamed at the end.

Because this is a bulky weight sweater, the body and sleeves will be worked flat and seamed at the end to add a bit of structure. You may also work the body and sleeves in the round if you prefer.

ribbed sweater knitting pattern full image

Finished Dimensions

XS S M L XL 2X 3X 4X 5X
Bust/Chest Circumference 38.5 41.5 46 50.5 53.5 58 62.5 65.5 70
Length 22.5 23 23.25 23.5 23.75 24 24 24.75 24.75
Sleeve Length 17.5 17.5 17.5 17.5 17.5 17.5 17.5 17.5 17.5
Measurements are given in inches.

XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

The Sunday Morning sweater knitting pattern is written for the smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you can highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin.

Help Choosing Size

This top is designed to be worn with 8-10” of positive ease. Model is 6’ tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size Small with 8.5” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is 6-10” larger than your corresponding bust measurement. For example, if your bust is 45”, you would wear a size XL. 

Gauge

10.5 stitches and 16 rows = 4” in k3, p3 rib stitch on size US 11 (8.0 mm) needles

Abbreviations

This pattern is written using US English terminology using Craft Yarn Council standards

Beg = beginning

BO = bind off

CO = cast on

K = knit

M = stitch marker

M1 = make one.  Make one stitch according to pattern.  

M1K = make one knit.  Either M1L or M1R according to established pattern.

M1L = make one left. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from front to back, knit through the back. 

M1R = make one right. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from back to front, knit through the front.

M1P = make one purl.  Either M1LP or M1RP according to established pattern.  

M1LP = make one left purl.  Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from front to back, then purl through the back loop of the strand.

M1RP = make one right purl.  Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the one you are about to knit with your left needle from back to front, then purl through the front loop of the strand.

P = purl

Rep = repeat

RS = right side, you will be working a RS row when the outside of your work (right side) is facing you

SM = slip marker

St = stitch

Stst = stockinette stitch

WS = wrong side, you will be working a WS row when the inside of your work (wrong side) is facing you

[ ] = work instructions within brackets as directed

 * = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

rib stitch sweater finished, on hanger, sitting in front of sunlight.

Rib Sweater Knitting Pattern

Cast on 49, (49, 49, 49, 49), (55, 55, 55, 55) sts.

Set Up Row sizes XS, S, M, L, XL:  p1, PM, k1, PM, p3, PM, k3, p3, k3, PM, p3, PM, k3, [p3, k3] 2x, PM, p3, PM, k3, p3, k3, PM, p3, PM,  k1, PM, p1.  

Set Up Row sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X:  p1, PM, p1, PM, p3, PM, k1, p3, k3, p3, k1, PM, p3, PM, p1, k3, [p3, k3] 2x, p1, PM, p3, PM, p1, k3, p3, k3, p1, PM, p3, PM, p1, PM, p1.

Row 1 (RS) sizes XS, S, M, L, XL:  k1, SM, M1LP, k1, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L, p3, k3, p3, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L, p3, [k3, p3] 2x, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L, p3, k3, p3, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L, k1, M1RP, SM, k1.  [59 sts total].

Row 1 (RS) sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X:  k1, SM, M1LP, p1, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L, k1, p3, k3, p3, k1, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L, k1, p3, [k3, p3] 2x, k1, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L, k1, p3, k3, p3, k1, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L, p1, M1RP, SM, k1.  [65 sts total].

To keep the pattern concise, you will be directed to ‘work in patt’ at certain times from this point forward.  What this means is that you will knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches in continuation of the 3×3 rib pattern as established in the set up row and row 1.

If you have trouble deciphering whether or not you need to knit or purl the next stitch, just remember that if the purl bump below the next stitch on your needle is facing you, you need to purl the stitch.  If the purl bump is facing away from you, you need to knit.   

Row 2 (WS) all sizes:  work in patt slipping Ms as you pass them. 

Flat-lay of the beginning few rows of the ribbed sweater
After a couple rows, your work will begin to look like this. You can see where the neckline will be shaped at the top, the back neckline at the bottom, and both the left and right sleeves on the sides. Between the stitch markers is the raglans. The increases will happen on either side of these raglans.

3 all sizes:  k1, SM, M1LP, *work in patt to next M, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L.  Rep from * three more times, work in patt to last M, M1RP, SM, k1.  [69, (69, 69, 69, 69), (75, 75, 75, 75) sts total].

4 all sizes:  work in patt slipping Ms as you pass them. 

5 sizes all sizes:  k1, SM, M1LP, *work in patt to next M, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L.  Rep from * three more times, work in patt to last M, M1RP, SM, k1.  [79, (79, 79, 79, 79), (85, 85, 85, 85) sts total].

6 all sizes:  as row 4. 

7 sizes XS, S, M, L, XL: k1, SM, M1L, *work in patt to next M, M1RP, SM, k3, SM, M1LP.  Rep from * three more times, work in patt to last M, M1R, SM, k1.  [89 sts total].

7 sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X:  k1, SM, M1LP, *work in patt to next M, M1R, SM, k3, SM, M1L.  Rep from * three more times, work in patt to last M, M1RP, SM, k1.  [95 sts total].

8 all sizes:  as row 4.  

Raglans starting to become more visible in the sweater
As you continue to increase, your work will begin to look like this. You can see the raglans forming a bit more clearly.

9 all sizes:   k1, SM, M1L, *work in patt to next M, M1RP, SM, k3, SM, M1LP.  Rep from * three more times, work in patt to last M, M1R, SM, k1.  [99, (99, 99, 99, 99), (105, 105, 105, 105) sts total].

10 all sizes:  as row 4.  

11 all sizes:  k1, SM, M1L, *work in patt to next M, M1RP, SM, k3, SM, M1LP.  Rep from * three more times, work in patt to last M, M1R, SM, k1.  [109, (109, 109, 109, 109), (115, 115, 115, 115) sts total].

You will now cast on sts for the neckline and complete the yoke in the round. 

12 all sizes:  work in patt slipping Ms as you pass them.  Do not turn.  Cast on 3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (5, 5, 5, 5) sts PM.  This M will now denote beg/end of each round.  Join to work in the round.  [112, (112, 112, 112, 112), (120, 120, 120, 120) sts total].

From this point forward, you will need to pay attention to the increases to maintain the 3×3 ribbing pattern.  What this means is that when you have just worked 3 purl stitches and are instructed to M1, you will M1K (knit increase) because the next st would be a knit stitch.  Alternatively, when you have just worked 3 knit stitches and are instructed to M1, you will M1P (purl increase) to maintain the 3×3 rib pattern.

If you need help remembering if you need to increase right, just look at the k3 raglan sts.  On the right side of the raglans, you will increase right (M1R or M1RP), on the left side of the raglans, you will increase left (M1L or M1LP).  

Round 13 (RS) sizes XS, S, M, L, XL 2X, 3X, 4X:  *k in patt to M, M1, SM, k3, SM, M1.  Rep from * three times, k in patt to end of rd.  [120, (120, 120, 120, 120), (128, 128, 128, X) sts total].

**Size 5X, skip to round 15.

ribbed stitch sweater yoke
After the neckline has been joined, you will continue to increase according to your size. You may need to switch to a longer circular needle at this point.

Round 14 and all even numbered rows until otherwise noted:  work in patt slipping Ms as you pass them. 

Sizes XS-4X, rep rounds 13-14  3, (3, 2, 2, 2), (0, 0, 0, X) more times. 

15 all sizes:  k in patt to M, M1, SM, k3, SM, k in patt to M, SM, k3, SM, M1.  Rep from * once more, k in patt to end of rd.  [148, (148, 140, 140, 140), (132, 132, 132, 124) sts total].

17:  *k in patt to M, M1, SM, k3, SM, M1.  Rep from * three times, k in patt to end of rd.  [156, (156, 148, 148, 148), (140, 140, 140, 132) sts total]. 

Repeat rounds 15-18  0, (1, 3, 4, 5), (7, 8, 9, 11) more times.  [156, (168, 184, 196, 208), (224, 236, 248, 264) sts total].

Then, work even (as round 14) four more times.

rib sweater knitting pattern detail images showing ribbed design

Separate the body and sleeves:  

Now, you will begin to work the body of the separately from the sleeves. 

Set up round:  *k in patt to M, remove M, k3, remove M, slip next 31 (33, 35, 37, 39) (41, 43, 45, 47) sts onto st holder or scrap yarn, remove M, k3, remove M.  Rep from * once more, k in patt to end of round. 

You will now have separated the front and back body pieces from the sleeves.  Because this is a bulky weight sweater, we will be working the front and back body separately and seaming at the end.  You may modify to work the body in the round if you prefer. 

Body

Set Up:  leaving M that denotes beg/end of each rd, k to end of body panel, CO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, turn.  K in patt to opposite end of body panel, CO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, turn.  K to M that denotes beg/end of each rd.

Row 1 sizes XS, S, M, L, XL:  remove M that denotes beg/end of each rd.  [k3, p3] to end of row.  Depending on your size, you may not be able to complete the full [k3, p3] repeat.  This is ok.

Row 1 sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X:  remove M that denotes beg/end of each rd.  k2, [k3, p3] to end of row.  Depending on your size, you may not be able to complete the full [k3, p3] repeat.  This is ok.

Note:  Depending on your size, this may or may not change some k sts to p or p sts to k.  This will be the new patt.  Don’t worry about the rib rows changing, this area will not be at the underarm and not visible when finished. 

Sleeves and body separated, front of sweater is in progress
In this photo you can see where a couple knit stitches had to switch to purl stitches to maintain the k3, p3 rib stitch pattern. This will be hidden at the underarm and not visible when the sweater is complete.

2:  work in patt to end of rd continuing with newly established [k3, p3] patt as done at the opposite underarm.  

Work back and forth in patt until body measures 14, (14, 14, 13.5, 13), (13, 12.5, 12.5, 12)”.  

Switching to size 10 needles, work one more row in patt.  

Then, work 2” in [k1, p1] rib st.  Bind off using the long tail tubular bind off method or stretchy bind off method of choice.  

The tubular bind off method is my bind-off of choice. It leaves a very professional looking edge and the stitches look as though they just roll over to the inside.

Repeat for back body piece, changing the orientations of some sts to maintain the 3×3 rib patt as done for front body piece. 

Sleeves

Transfer the 31, (33, 35, 37, 39), (41, 43, 45, 47) sts set aside for one of the sleeves onto larger needles.  

Row 1 (RS):  CO 2, (2, 2, 3, 3), (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, work across row in patt.  

Row 2 (WS):  CO 2, (2, 2, 3, 3), (3, 4, 4, 4) sts, work across row in patt.  [35, (37, 39, 43, 45), (47, 51, 53, 55) sts].Dec row:  k2tbl, work in patt until 2 sts remain, k2tog.  [33, (35, 37, 41, 43), (45, 49, 51, 53) sts].

Work 15, (11, 9, 9, 7) (7, 5, 5, 5) rows in patt then, work another decrease row.  

Continue in this way decreasing every 16, (12, 10, 10, 8), (8, 6, 6, 6) th row until 27, (27, 27, 29, 29), (29, 31, 31, 31) sts remain.  

Continue in patt until sleeve measures 15.5” long.  You may work more or less and this point to make your sleeve longer or shorter.  

Switching to size 10 needles, work one more row in patt.  

Then, work 2” in [k1, p1] rib st.  Bind off using the tubular bind off method or stretchy bind off method of choice.  

Repeat for the second sleeve. 

Neckline

You will now switch to  size 10 needles to work the neckline.

With RS facing you and beginning on the right side of the back left raglan, pick up 20 sts along left shoulder and to the front; pick up 3, (3, 3, 3, 3), (5, 5, 5, 5)  sts across center front; pick up 20 sts along right shoulder; and finally, pick up 15, (15, 15, 15, 15), (17, 17, 17, 17)  sts across back neckline.  

neckline after stitches have been picked up to work the neckband.
Take your time picking up the neckline stitches. Aim to pick up one neckline stitch per stitch along the neck opening.

Work 3” in k1, p1 rib stitch.  Bind off loosely.  Fold neckband over to inside of neckline and seam along the ridge where you picked up sts to create a foldover neckband.  

Finishing

Seam sides, sleeves, and underarm to assemble sweater.  Weave in all ends and block to finish.

Enjoy!

For questions, please email kaitlin@originallylovely.com or comment below!

I’d love to see your finished work!  Share on social media using the hashtag #originallylovely or by tagging @originally.lovely on Instagram!

Sunday Morning Sweater knitting pattern
YAZAR BİLGİSİ
At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam.
YORUMLAR

Henüz yorum yapılmamış. İlk yorumu yukarıdaki form aracılığıyla siz yapabilirsiniz.